Tuesday 28 May 2013

Salted Chocolate Tarts - perfect for entertaining

A delicious slice of Salted chocolate tart served with creme fraiche
Salted chocolate and salted caramel has been a flavour trend for the last few years now and so I've been meaning to make something along these lines for ages. Originally I was going to do a trio of chocolate deserts or to give it a posher title an assiette of chocolate but time got the better of me. That said, I will definitely make these lovely little tarts again along with a couple of other deserts when I next have friends round for dinner. However, one thing I found was that they were too salty for me, so I will be amending the amount I add next time, other than that they were  fairly straightforward to make and by doing the pastry in the food processor it did mean you ended up with a light melt-in-the mouth texture.

This recipe, Salted Chocolate Tarts With Caramelised Pecans page 250, comes from one of my favourite books of the moment and one that I've only had in my possession since this Christmas: Masterchef Everyday 2012 http://www.amazon.co.uk/MasterChef-EveryDay-DK-Cookery-General/dp/1405394358/ref=sr_1_1?s=books&ie=UTF8&qid=1369689152&sr=1-1&keywords=masterchef+everyday  The 'everyday' aspect of the book focuses on 20 recipes that the presenters, John Torode and Greg Wallace from the popular television series, have adapted to make them more user friendly for the likes of us to incorporate into our weekly repertoire of meals. There is also of course the usual Masterchef recipes that have featured in the programmes by the likes of celebrities such as England Rugby player Phil Vickery, musician Danny Goffey or journalist and presenter Kirsty Wark as well as  the recipes from the contestants of the general public. As always the food is beautifully assembled and presented with the obvious attentions to detail. The photography is excellent, although not all recipes are accompanied with a picture, however, where you do get a photograph, it will give you the confidence to recreate the look at home. The recipes that have been simplified for 'everyday' are dishes such as Pan-fried Gurnard page 74, Tea-smoked Duck page 122, White Chocolate Parfait page 254 and Trio of Italian Desserts page 290.

The last section of the book is entitled 'What's in my fridge?' and aims to offer quick and easy meals using ingredients in said fridge. It concentrates on chicken, bacon, cheese, eggs for example. So you get on page 336 the Perfect Omelette and a recipe for Tortilla, on page 330 it's Grilled Lemon and Honey Chicken.

I must also mention that the contestants are not just a name and photograph attributed to their respective recipes, the first section of the book is dedicated to giving a brief outline of all the 'people' involved. I think this grounds the book in a reality that is then demonstrated by the contestants' passion and enthusiasm for each of their recipes.

Salted Chocolate Tarts With Caramelized Pecans (copyright 2012 Dorling Kindersley Limited)

Serves 4
For the pastry
90g softened butter
40g caster sugar
1 egg yolk
125g plain flour                                                       
Making the pastry in the food processor

2 tsp cocoa powder
For the filling
175g dark chocolate (70% cocoa solids)
175ml double cream
175g light muscovado sugar
1 and half tsp sea salt (Beware! Next time I'm reducing to about 1tsp!)
For the pecans
100g Caster sugar
12 pecan halves
pinch of sea salt
To serve
chilled creme fraiche




  1. Pulse the butter and sugar in the food processor, add the egg yolk. Sift the flour and cocoa into the mixture and pulse until the mixture just comes together. The dough should be soft but not sticky. Wrap in cling film and rest in the fridge for about 45 minutes.
  2. Preheat the oven to 200 degrees centigrade (400 degrees Fahrenheit). Roll out the pastry and use to line four 8-10cm (3-4in) loose-bottomed tartlet tins, making sure there aren't any holes. Line the tarts with greaseproof paper, fill with baking beans, and bake for 15 minutes. Remove the beans and paper, and cook for another 5 minutes. Allow to cool. 
  3. To make the filling, put the chocolate, cream, muscovado sugar, and salt in a large bowl over a saucepan of gently simmering water. Stir occasionally until the mixture is melted and completely smooth. Spoon the filling into the pastry cases and put in the fridge for about 2 hours until set.     
  4. To make the caramelized pecans, put the caster sugar and 2 tbsp water into a saucepan and dissolve completely over a very low heat, shaking the pan occasionally. Turn up the heat and boil until it turns golden brown. Working quickly, stir through the pecans and sea salt, then transfer onto a baking sheet lined with baking parchment, spreading out with a spatula. When cool, break up the pecans, trying to keep each one whole. When the tarts have almost set, top each one with 3 pecans. Serve with very cold creme fraiche.


    The prepared pastry ready for chilling
    Making the chocolate filling
    The filled pastry cases

Caramelising the pecans
A finished tart











A member of the household decided to add their own personal touch in the form of tangerine segments!
So how could you simplify this recipe? The book suggests that you could use bought sweet shortcrust pastry. Instead of making homemade caramelized pecans you could decorate with bough chocolate-coated pecans.

Next time: in the pipeline I have a lovely mini doughnut recipe from master baker Richard Bertinet. Also, Greg Wallace's wonderful rhubarb crumble...



Gianduja Gelato and Fresh Mint Ice Cream - courtesy of the brilliant David Lebovitz


Gianduja Gelato



About this time last year one of my earliest recipes was a Peach Ice Cream from David Lebovitz's brilliant book The Perfect Scoop (2011) .http://www.amazon.co.uk/The-Perfect-Scoop-Granitas-Accompaniments/dp/1906417547/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1369734037&sr=8-1&keywords=the+perfect+scoop You may remember me extolling the virtues of an amazing Gianduja Ice cream - essentially a chocolate, hazelnut affair that I must admit is in my top 5 of flavours: its smooth sublime texture and absolutely gorgeous taste really does it for me! Well I've made another batch and thought I'd add a few pictures to prove it.  (I've also added a link to the recipe which I've found on the web, although If you are serious about making ice cream this is one book that is worth purchasing).
http://thelittleloaf.wordpress.com/2011/07/26/gianduja-ice-cream-chocolate-chip-cookie-sandwiches/

Along with the sublime nuttiness of Gianduja, the Fresh Mint Ice Cream on page 99 looked very tempting and since my mint had gone completely unchecked in the garden, it was the perfect opportunity to make use of this abundant herb. What a zingy, invigorating ice cream it is! I wasn't sure whilst preparing it, the smell of the mint infusing in the cream was rather bland,  but after the first taste check I was hooked!  I'm now considering creating some after-dinner ice cream chocolates by scooping the ice cream into balls and dipping in melted dark chocolate and sugar - I'll let you know how I get on. (Here is a link to the Fresh Mint Ice Cream recipe) http://www.seriouseats.com/recipes/2007/06/cook-the-book-fresh-mint-ice-c.html

Roasting the hazelnuts

Cooling the gianduja custard in an ice bath




Not forgetting the wonderful zingy and invigorating Fresh Mint Ice Cream


Monday 13 May 2013

Chocolate Coffee Lamb - Swedish-style

If you've never combined chocolate with savoury it is not as alien as you might think. This recipe is rather rich and decadent as far as casseroles go and it seems the sweetness of lamb perfectly complements the chocolate. I first sampled the combination of savoury and chocolate quite a few years ago when I attended a chocolate tasting/demonstration evening at a favourite local restaurant http://thelavenderhouse.co.uk/  Among other things we had a starter of sea bass with a foaming white chocolate sauce and a main course of duck and chocolate. I also sampled a  delicious hot chocolate drink, (which was great for me as I don't drink coffee), and ever since, the chef-patron Richard Hughes always goes out of his way to make me a special hot chocolate every time I visit!

Swedish Chocolate Coffee Lamb served with chunky croutons and creme fraiche, mashed potatoes and broccoli.
This particular recipe comes from Green & Blacks Chocolate Recipes (2003) http://www.amazon.co.uk/Green-Blacks-Chocolate-Recipes-Unwrapped/dp/1856264890/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1367396181&sr=8-2&keywords=Green+and+Black%27s+chocolate+recipes This book has a luxurious feel to it with lovely recipes to tempt and tantalise, woven into the book are tales about the Maya of Belize and the whole cultivation and production of chocolate as well as advice on techniques of cooking and handling the gorgeous stuff. There is lots of good photography although I still like to see a photo accompany every recipe! There is of course a real mix of recipes from muffins, cookies and mousses to the savoury dishes such as Chicken Mole or Spicy Organic Pork and Herb Chilean Chocolate Sausages.
So what else am I hoping to try in the future? There are some fabulous mousse recipes which are always good for our household this time of year when are hens are laying well. I tend to end up using the yolks for custard-based ice creams and then racking my brains for new ideas to use up the whites. On page 115 there's Nigel Slater's White Chocolate Cardamom Mousse, on page 117 a Bitter Chocolate Mousse With Blackcurrants and on page 119 a Chocolate Nougat Mousse which uses Toblerone (I can't wait to try that one).

The recipe I've chosen this time is the Swedish Chocolate Coffee Lamb on page 86 and what a success it was too! As the introductory blurb for the recipe states "Don't dare tell your friends what's in this dish until they have eaten it" and very sound advice I would agree. I once made the mistake  of telling my husband whilst he was finishing his Chocolate and Beetroot Cake, which he was lapping up, that it contained beetroot, well, that was it wasn't it! This casserole is very rich and perfect to warm you up on a chilly evening. It also freezes very well too, so make a batch and save some for a later date.
 .
Swedish Chocolate Coffee Lamb (copyright 2003 Green & Black's Ltd)

50g self-raising flour
1/2 tsp mustard powder
pinch of salt
1kg very lean lamb (fillet or leg) cut into 3cm cubes
75g butter
3 garlic cloves
1 large onion
12 shallots
1 tbsp olive oil
1 tbsp Kahlua (coffee liqueur)
Born and manufactured here in Norfolk!

250ml strong filter coffee
750ml lamb stock
50g dark chocolate, broken into pieces
SPICES AND SEASONING (CROUTONS)
A pinch of mace
12 cardamom pods, crushed
1 vanilla pod, de-seeded
1/2 tsp nutmeg, grated or 1/4 tsp of the spice powder
1 star anise
3 bay leaves
FOR THE CROUTONS
1 slice of white bread
1 slice of granary bread
TO GARNISH
1 tbsp creme fraiche
chopped parsley
Serves 4-6


  1. Place all the spices and seasoning for the croutons in a frying pan and gently dry toast over a very low heat for about 10-15 minutes, but don't let them burn. Tip into a small bowl and reserve until needed for the croutons. Preheat the oven to 220 degrees.
  2. Season the flour with the mustard powder, salt and pepper. Toss the lamb in half the seasoned flour and coat well. Rub together 25 g of butter and the remaining seasoned flour.
  3. Crush the garlic, slice the onions into rings and finely chop the shallots. Fry all three in the remaining butter and olive oil until they are golden. Remove from the pan with a slotted spoon and set aside.
  4. In the same pan, fry the flour-coated lamb in batches until browned on all sides. Remove and put in a casserole dish and add the garlic, onion and shallot mixture. Don't wash the pan!
  5. Add the Kahlua and the coffee to the sticky brown residue in the pan and whisk over a medium heat for about 4 minutes, scraping all the bits in the bottom of the pan, to form a glossy, smooth sauce; the sauce should reduce by a half. Add the lamb stock and the flour and butter mixture, continuing to stir. Bring to the boil and pour over the meat and onion mixture.
  6. Cook in the oven for 15 minutes and then reduce the temperature to 160 degrees for a further 45 minutes or until the lamb is tender.

Dry frying the spices

Frying the onion, garlic and shallots





Kahlua, coffee and stock
Ready to go in the oven





7.  Stir in the pieces of chocolate ensuring it is well blended.
8.   While the casserole is finishing off, you can prepare the croutons: blend all the reserved spices to a crumbled mass discarding the cardomom pods. Cut the bread into cubes (I like mine large!) and gently fry with the spices and olive oil.
9.   Garnish with a swirl of creme fraiche and a sprinkling of chopped parsley and the croutons.
10.   Serve with mashed potatoes and green veg.

The lamb casserole with the chocolate stirred in
A lovely casserole to indulge in on a chilly spring evening

We did really enjoy this casserole and if your worried about the fact that it does contain chocolate and you don't fancy eating it in a savoury context, don't be! It's not entirely obvious that you are tasting chocolate, but what it does offer as an added ingredient, is a richness and silkiness to the sauce which we really appreciated.

Next time: My last run on the chocolate for a little while - Salted Chocolate Tarts. Watch this space!